The Western hognose snake is a small snake with a stout body and is found from southern Canada into the United States and northern Mexico.
Welcome to a wonderful and unique species, Heterodon nasicus, commonly known as the Western hognose snake. The proper common name is Plains hognose snake, but they are interchangeable. The Western hognose snake is a small snake with a stout body and is found from southern Canada into the United States and northern Mexico. The snake inhabits prairies, plains, floodplains scrub area, as well as grasslands semi-desert areas and areas in which agriculture occurs. It prefers sandy and gravely soils. Primarily diurnal, it is a fairly docile snake except when threatened. When threatened it will puff up and hiss, flatten its neck and strike with a closed mouth. Of all its traits, probably the most notable is its capability to play dead when threatened, which it often does as a last resort. They have gained in popularity in recent years and are now available at many reptile shows across the United States.
Toffee phase. Photo by Jeff Galewood, Jr.
Hog Knows
Before jumping in and acquiring a plains hognose snake there are several very important things that you should know first.
Hognose snakes can bite. A lot of people new to hognose snakes are not informed about the possibility of a hognose mistaking you for food. Hognose snakes are a mildly venomous rear-fanged species, but for most people that’s nothing to worry about as their venom is very weak. It takes a long time for them to administer their venom to you through a chewing motion, which is great news, because you can easily and safely remove them through the steps that I am about to share.
Striped hognose. Photo by Jeff Galewood, Jr.
You will be able to remove a hognose before they can even deliver the venom. The most effective and sure-fire way to quickly remove a hognose that is chewing on you, is what I like to call the “Pop can tab method.” This involves removing a hognose in a manner similar in how you would open a can of soda. You put your index finger in front of the rostral scale (the large upturned scale at the end of their nose that gives hognose its name). Have your middle finger and thumb on each side of the back of the hognoses head, holding it in position. Slowly pull up on their rostral scale (their nose) with your index finger while increasing pressure until you slowly over power them. As you’re removing the hognose, slowly unhook the teeth that are in you. You may have to gently rock back and forth to get their smaller teeth unhooked. If you do this calmly and firmly, you won’t hurt the hognose and it’s a great way to carefully remove them without getting envenomated.
Once removed, while still holding the hognose behind the head, place the snake back into the enclosure and release. Is this painful? No, unless they get you in a tender area. Even then it’s not bad.
Common Questions About Hognose Bites:
Is hognose venom like bee and wasp venom? Not at all, actually bee and wasp venoms themselves are very different from one another. The one thing these venoms have in common, is that they cause a large histamine response. Their venom is designed to cause pain and a quick immune system reaction in the means of defense.
Axanthic Conda hognose snake. Photo by Jeff Galewood, Jr.
Plains hognose snake venom does not work like bee or wasp venom. The proteins are different. Hognose venom is an evolutionary tool to help them subdue certain prey that continues to struggle. They have to chew and hang onto prey for a bit of time to gradually administer it. Why it’s important to remove them promptly, they are not dangerous and if you remove them quickly, you will most likely not feel the effects from their venom.
I suggest everyone learn how to remove a hognose in the case of an accidental bite. I have a pinned video on my Instagram and a video on YouTube. For children, adult supervision is recommended when handling any reptile.
Mite Not Be A Good Idea:
If for any reason you need to treat a hognose for mites, DO NOT USE Permethrin-based products, no pest strips, no Prevent o Mite or Black Night products. These are highly toxic to hognose snakes. Diatomaceous earth baths and diatomaceous earth being sprinkled through the enclosure with limited areas for mites to hide (if your snake does have mites) is a great alternative. Try washing with Dawn soap and water while massaging the snake to get between the scales. Apply mineral oil to the snake after cleaning the entire enclosure. These are safe alternatives. For diatomaceous earth, you can also sprinkle it around the outside of enclosures of shelves, making a barrier, so if mites crawl through it, they will die.
Hognose Snake Enclosure Tips
Hognose setups should be tailored to a small semi fossorial/terrestrial species. I use ARS Caging Systems for my hognose breeding setups. Mini series for babies with polycarb clear tubs. 10 series for juveniles and subadults. Adult females and real large males 50 series. Bioactive terrariums work wonderful too and offer more options.
For babies, smaller setups are generally best. Enclosures for my babies are 21 inches long, 5.6 inches wide, and 3.5 inches tall. This range gives them plenty of space to crawl around and to grow. It’s also a good size for them to become familiar with their surroundings, making them feel secure and safe. Larger bioactive or naturalistic terrarium like setups can be used for babies. In my experience, babies in large enclosures are more likely to go off feed.
Some start babies off in 6 quart Tupperware with a small heating pad on one side and shallow bedding as another option. Once the baby hognose are around 15 to 20 + grams they generally have more confidence with their surroundings and can be upgraded to a larger setup.
Sub Adult and Adult Hognose Snake Enclosure Setup
Similar to babies, provide enough space so they can stretch out. If you want to do a bioactive or naturalistic setup and provide lots of hides and structures, you definitely should. If doing a bioactive and providing plants, please keep in mind hognose snakes sometimes like to behave like little bulldozers. They will till up a lot! They will uproot plants and have fun exploring any introduced or new objects. You can put in potted plants, but huge warning: Make sure the holes in the bottom of the pots are not something they can get stuck in. That can be disastrous or even fatal if they decide to try and crawl through the hole and get stuck.
Bedding
Coarse aspen sani chips, aspen shavings, or bioactive substrates are good substrate solutions. I have also used coco coir mixed with coarse sand for years as it replicates loam. The central plains with the densest hognose populations have sandy loamy soil.
Heating
An adequate thermogradient is essential for a hognose snake to live a healthy and comfortable life. There is no exact perfect temperature to keep a hognose consistently at. Having a thermogradient (meaning a range of temperatures throughout the enclosure) in this case is describing having one side of the enclosure cooler and having one part or side warmer. A hot spot of 88 to 96 degrees Fahrenheit (31.1 to 35.6 degrees Celsius) is a good range for the warm side. Hognose snakes will utilize the heat source to thermoregulate their body temperatures. Having an adequate thermogradient helps their body digest meals properly and they can move between the warm side of their enclosure and the cooler side to maintain the proper body temperature needed.
I prefer a slightly warmer ambient temperature of 74 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (23.3 to 26.7 degrees Celsius). Ambient temperatures in the upper 60s to low 70s can work as well too, as long as your hot spot is warm enough. Having a proper thermogradient is very important for hatchling and juvenile individuals. You can use heating pads or over head lighting to achieve a thermogradient.
Water
Wider lower water dishes that these snakes can easily access are a must. Frequently clean their water as old stagnant water grows bacteria. Tall dishes believe it or not can cause some to become dehydrated if they’re not able to find it. Shallow water dishes they can easily access on the cool side of their enclosure are perfect.
Humidity Parameters For Hognose Snakes
Humidity ranges in the 40% to 70% range are good. The one thing you can do is provide a humid hide. A hide filled with damp coco coir, sphagnum moss, peat moss, or a mix of sand and the aforementioned mediums can be used.
Ideal Hides For Your Hognose Snake
Plains hognose snakes inhabit mainly prairie habitats. They utilize abandoned rodent burrows and frequently hide in grass clumps. Tubes and other hides will be utilized by them. When putting in hides make sure the structures don’t have any entrances the snake can get stuck in. I have seen a few different people unfortunately lose a hognose because it got stuck in a cork hide with a narrow gap, or a little pot with holes in the bottom.
Hognose like to dig and explore so they will get into everything. Another awesome quality about these quirky creatures, is they’re very curious.
Growth and Dysecdysis
Hognose do not shed as often as other commonly kept colubrids. I have had many go five months between shed cycles. The average is more between three to four months. Misting them while in shed or making sure they have a humid hide helps keep their scales hydrated and healthy and to prevent dysecdysis, or stuck shed.
Breeding Size
Typical adult male length is between 16 to 24 inches. A lot of my adult males are around the 20-inch mark. The largest male in my collection currently is a little over 25 inches. I have had very small but mature males breed at sizes around 30 grams, near 13 inches in length which is very impressive. In these cases they’re slow growing males that are mature due to age more so than size in most cases.
Hognose snake pairing. Photo by Jeff Galewood, Jr.
Females have a broad range in size as well. Being larger and more robust than males with shorter tails. My adult females typically range between 21 and 30 inches (Depends on the age as they continually grow). My first-year breeder females are smaller. My favorite range that I have documented for first year breeder females (and have had the most success with over the last 25+ years of breeding) is females in the 150 to 200 gram range with an age minimum of 2 years old but more preferably closer to 3 years of age. My older females who have had a few breeding seasons under their belt are usually in the 26- to 30-inch range and weigh in at around 220 to 400 grams. I do have a few females that are 30 inches plus with my largest being 33 inches (I have had and seen some giant females over 36 inches).
Hognose snake eggs. Photo by Jeff Galewood, Jr.
Captive individuals get much larger than their wild counterparts. That’s due to consistent metabolism spikes as hognose snakes are usually kept constantly at high temperatures and are fed frequently on a mouse diet that is very rich and a bit fatty. This results in over-sized snakes. This is mainly an issue with females as males, once they’re mature have a drastic natural decline in their metabolic rate. I prefer to keep my females a smaller healthier size as over the years I have found that to be best and closer to how they are in the wild. Larger females can do well, but it’s important they attain these sizes gradually over a four plus year time frame or more.
Feeding Hognose Snakes
Plains Hognose snake babies get a bad reputation for being bad feeders. It’s a common misunderstanding. They are not a typical ambush predator species of snake. While they do ambush some prey, other prey they find by hunting and devouring. I like to replicate this in captivity by literally putting their food right up to their face (note there are babies who will come right out to try and grab food offered). I’m definitely the most tactful and gentle with this approach when it comes to newly hatched hognose snakes.
Albino hognose snake hatchlings. Photo by Jeff Galewood, Jr.
For the very first time feeding a baby hognose, I stealthily approach them with a frozen-thawed pinky mouse. I tear the pink’s nose a bit so there’s some blood and I dunk the pink’s head in water. I put the wet pink head against the baby hognose’s mouth and let it drink and taste the pink head. Drinking from the pink’s head does one of two things. It gets them ingesting water so they’re stopped and focused on that activity, they’re also simultaneously tasting it. If the taste is good to them, you can see them become interested and go from drinking to eating! This method works great and can also be used with different types of scent if the baby hognose doesn’t find the taste of the pinky mouse appealing.
Hognose snake playing dead. This is what they are known for. Photo by Jeff Galewood, Jr.
Popular fish scents for baby hognose are sardine, tuna, and salmon (get the canned fish in water and use the juice from the can. You can also put the excess juice in little souffle cups or a container and freeze it for future use). It only needs to be partially thawed when later using the saved juice. Other popular scents that work are chicken bone broth, frog, toad, lizard, gecko, or better yet scenting strips. Scent strips are made of gauze dipped in puree of deceased frogs, toads, and lizards. They work quite well for the small percentage of stubborn babies that won’t take fish scented pinks or other scents like chicken bone broth, Vienna sausage juice, chicken hearts, egg, etc. Live pinky mice work for some stubborn hognose too as the movement and smell triggers a feeding response.
Instagram account Repsintx (https://www.instagram.com/repsintxscentstrips/) produces and sells scent strips. Scent strips are highly effective if made right as they combine strong odors of the more common natural prey baby plains hognose eat; lizards and amphibians. Baby plains hognose also eat a good amount of lizard eggs in the wild although that’s a tough one to replicate (I have had ok success with egg yolk and gecko egg).
Hognose snakes pipping. Photo by Jeff Galewood, jr.
I typically go to scenting for hatched baby hognose snakes if they refuse their first three meal offerings. Baby hognose, unlike some species of snakes, shed within hours or a couple days after hatching. Some will start eating just a couple days after hatching. But I typically wait around a week before I offer their first meals.
Hatchling hognose snakes can have a large range in mass. They can be under 3 grams in extreme cases with the rare runt size being around 1 to 2 grams. Average size babies are ranging more often in the 4 to 7 gram range. I have plenty of babies that hatch at large robust sizes of 8 to 11 grams. My record weights are 13 to 14 grams, absolute whoppers.
- Prey size for micro hogs 3 grams and under – small pinky head
- Prey size for 4 gram to 6 gram hogs – extra small pinks
- Prey size for 7 to 9 gram hogs – small to medium size pinks
- Prey size for 10 to 15 gram hogs – medium to large pinks
- Prey size for 16 to 25 gram hogs – Large pinks to peach fuzzy mouse
- Prey size 26 grams to 40 grams – peach fuzzy to fuzzy mouse
- Prey size Males 40 to 70 grams – one to two fuzzy mice
- Prey Size Females 40 to 70 grams – one to three fuzzy mice
Keep in mind mouse sizes vary a bit between suppliers. A good rule of thumb is a prey item slightly thicker than their center mass. For babies, juveniles, small subadults, you can feed them every 5 to 7 days.
For males 70 grams and up, their metabolic rate and growth generally starts to slow down. Some more rare cases males can hit astounding sizes (rare cases over 160 grams) but it’s best to keep them fit and healthy. You can do a hopper mouse or two or keep them on a couple fuzzy mice. If they don’t want to eat much that can mean they’re ready to breed, seasonal change could naturally put them off food in preparation for brumation as well. Other reasons for going off food for adult males, is simply they don’t require food as their metabolism has slowed down and they have ample fat reserves.
For females 70 grams to 120 grams, I generally like to feed them enough where there is a decent visible lump. Females can have voracious appetites as they’re growing. A couple small hoppers or multiple fuzzy mice is good. For my larger females I will start to feed them small adult mice. Hognose snakes do better with digesting a couple smaller meals versus one big one. When upscaling prey size as a young hognose is growing, you can start feeding them two smaller meals before upgrading.
Alternative Prey
Hard boiled chicken eggs (peeled and chopped into bite size pieces), button quail eggs whole (raw but suggest cleaning them first), silver side fish, frog leg meat, quail, balut (without shell), certain reptile diet sausages (Reptilinks), in rare cases ethically produced and raised feeder toads, frogs, or lizard species (Rare because of difficulty to produce them at an affordable price).
In the wild, hognose snakes have a varied diet made up of reptile eggs, lizards, amphibians, rodents, bird eggs and fledglings that nest on the ground, and sometimes other snakes. The central plains and the prairie habitats experience droughts, temperature fluctuations, booms of available food and the opposite. This results in a healthy varied diet with a climate that causes them to have metabolic spikes and drops more frequently. Compare this to natural growth versus captive care where hognose are kept at constant summer like temperatures and are fed too frequently as adults. This causes over-sized and unhealthy individuals. This can be mitigated and improved upon by using portion control.
Hognose snakes in the wild are feeding nowhere near as frequently as they are in captivity. Once the females start getting close to maturity I will cut them back from feeding every 7 days to every 10 to 12 days. This is around the 120 gram mark. Once females have had their first breeding season and they have gained all of their weight back, they are fed every 10 to 14 days. It may vary if they’re a little leaner or are gaining too much weight. Some massive females I am feeding every 14 to 21 days. This keeps them healthier, producing clutches longer and as a pet giving them a longer healthier life for the people who are not interested in breeding. I will note the only time I am feeding my adults frequently is during the breeding season and while the females are gravid. I cut them back once they have gained back all of their weight post breeding.
Breeding
Simulating a seasonal change through brumation is an extremely important process that helps your breeding results with plains hognose. Where hognose range in the wild, climates in northern locales get quite cold during the winter. The southern extent of their range have milder winters but both ranges of plains hognose brumate. I have found that brumation temperatures are not extremely important when simulating a cool down. Temperatures in the 40s to 50s Fahrenheit (4 to 10 Celsius) versus temperatures in the 60s (15.6 Celsius and thereabouts) yielded about equal successful breeding outcomes. What is important is simulating a natural seasonal cycle that puts their bodies instinctively into a reproductive state. Brumation also organizes when you can breed them, and organization is always key to success. They evolved for millions of years, evolving and adapting around the season’s climates. So it makes sense why you should simulate it to a degree to put their body on that natural track.
How to Brumate
First you want your hognose to empty their digestive tract before cooling, do this by not feeding them for 20 days with their heat still on. Following the two week period, turn their heat source off keeping them at room temperature. For another week to 12 days I keep them at room temperature (70 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit or 21.1 to 25.0 degrees Celsius). After this I put them down into brumation. You can use your cellar if you have one or a controlled environment that stays in the 40s to low mid 60s. Keeping them mostly dark during this time.Some people brumate with wine coolers. Thermoelectric wine coolers are less noisy and produce less vibration than compressor wine coolers. Look for wine coolers that produce less vibration.
I brumate my females for around two months. For males the time period isn’t as important, a month is sufficient. You can brumate them in smaller containers with a mix of lightly damp coco coir mixed with a little sand, simulating them brumating in an abandoned rodent burrow. The slightly moist substrate will help keep them hydrated. You can brumate them on dry substrate as well but make sure they have access to water. In both scenarios they should be offered water. They won’t drink as much at these cooler temperatures as their metabolic rate is lower.
In the coco coir/sand damp medium, some may not even get thirsty the entire time as their body conserves water and the lightly damp soil keeps them from drying out. You can take them out of brumation intermittently for a day or two as well. Keep them at room temperature so they’re active to make sure they drink and are looking good. Then you can put them back in to cool down. It won’t interfere with their brumation.
Once out of brumation I leave them at room temperature for around two to three days before putting them back in their setups. Setting them back up I don’t immediately crank their heat, I set their hot spot around 82 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (27.8 to 30 degrees Celsius). I keep it like this throughout the breeding season). The ambient temperature is mid to upper 70s. I’ll offer them a small first meal around five days out of brumation and then their second meal five days after their first (normal size meal). I generally offer food once or twice before I start pairing. For males it’s not as important that they are fed before pairing as long as they have good weight.
An important note: I don’t pair males while they have food in their digestive tract. When they court females they’re very active and snakes are mostly in a resting state after they eat (they’re resting, digesting, and thermoregulating when they have a meal). When males have food in their bellies and they are put in with a female, they have a higher chance of regurgitating from the activity. On the contrary, females you can pair with a full stomach (as long as they’re not frantic and trying to get away from the male, if behavior like that persists, separate them). The benefit to pairing a female on a full stomach is they’re less likely to eat a male. I’ll talk about cannibalism shortly.
Introducing the Male and Female
Upon introduction you will generally see the females excitedly wave their tails back and forth and they will often twitch/pulsate their whole body (males will also twitch/pulsate when recognizing the female). It’s an instinctive reaction when being introduced or coming across another hognose. It’s a little way of them sending a signal to one another. The male will follow the female around staying near her where it looks like they’re crawling with the female or trying to ride them (called surfing) these behaviors are good signs. If these behaviors don’t happen right away don’t get discouraged. Some take a bit to become acquainted and receptive. They also may not be ready yet if you see no interest. I like to pair around two weeks post brumation. Some females won’t allow a male to lock for a whole month after brumation, sometimes longer. Generally though I am seeing a lot of males locking with the female after the first few pairing attempts.
I keep an eye on them especially for the first hour after introducing them as that’s the most likely time a female may try to eat a male, although it can happen at any time. Cannibalism isn’t super common, but it’s something to be wary of. Things to mitigate cannibalism: Keeping an eye on them during pairing, making sure the female is well fed/has a few good meals in her stomach so she isn’t as inclined to want to eat, also pairing them right out of cool down before their metabolic rate increases is another option. But some won’t breed right out of cool down.
Other Breeding Tips
When pairing I will leave a male with a female for a few days at a time. Separate them to feed, make sure the female recognizes the male hognose isn’t food when they’re introduced. Give a male seven days between pairings to rest, feed up, and hydrate before pairing. You can use multiple males at a time, I have paired as many as four (though not typical) males on a female that was reluctant to breed, but was willing and receptive when stimulated by multiple males. A couple males can really stimulate breeding behavior when paired with one or two females. Keep an eye on who locks with who, generally I am pairing hognose with the same genetics in these situations. Some males are not compatible with certain females and prefer others. While not common I have witnessed this several times. A male who would show no interest in a certain female for weeks, then with another female readily court her. I also supplement my hognose prey, especially during breeding. Zoo Med Calcium without d3, Miracle Care’s Vionate, and Zoo Med Reptivite are great choices.
Copulation
Once you have a lock, copulation last a few hours. I see a lot of locks lasting three to six hours and as little as one to two hours. The longest observed and documented lock, was a little over 13 hours. When they are done breeding I remove the male and mark the copulation date along with the pairing info. I generally do not re pair, even for 2nd clutches! (If you see poor fertility on the 1st clutch you can try reintroducing a male, but do it within days of the 1st clutch being laid). Once the male has bred, I remove him. I feed both and I focus on feeding the female every four to six days. This is the only time other than a female needing weight where I will feed an adult female frequently in order to help build healthy eggs and to keep her healthy. Once the female ovulates, gestation is right around one month. I have pin pointed the average gestation time in captivity through note keeping. It is around 30 days. I have seen gestation periods as short as 26 and 27 days (From breeding to laying fertile eggs in 26 to 27 days).
Egg Boxes / Pre-lay Shed
Once your female becomes gravid, you should notice scale separation and swelling in the lower 1/3 portion of her body. I introduce an egg box (a Tupperware container with a hole in the lid filled half way with loamy soil). You can use coco coir, peat moss, vermiculite, sphagnum moss, bioactive substrates, or a mix of a few for the lay box. If the female doesn’t seem to like her egg box, frequently digging outside of it, I will make their entire enclosure an egg box (lay box substrate throughout the enclosure with hides).
Female hognose will have a pre lay shed before they lay their eggs. I always document this so I know when I am likely to see eggs! So make sure to date your pre lay shed. Average lay date after the pre lay shed is between seven and 11 days. I sometimes get a good amount of females laying six days after pre lay shed if ambient temperatures are on the higher side. I have had a female lay three days after a pre lay shed and my longest was over 30 which defies gestation time frame norms as she was obviously gravid before her pre lay, and yes her eggs were good. Normally they don’t take longer than 15 days after pre lay shed to lay. Clutch sizes vary greatly, from a few up to a little over 30 for a record. Average is around 13 eggs for me.
Incubation
I incubate between 78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit (25.6 to 27.8 degrees Celsius) in coco coir with a little sand in a Tupperware container with two small airholes the diameter of the thickness of a toothpick. Incubation takes between 51 to 60 days at this temperature range on average. I bury my eggs slightly but you can nestle them into the substrate. This isn’t the only way to incubate but one I like and use with great success.
Quarantine and Health
Here are some common health ailments that can affect the Plains hognose:
- Dry nose: Husbandry issue, substrate dry and dusty / dirty, too low of humidity. Creating an environment where the hognose gets debris in their nasal cavity and dry debris build up around their mouth. Simple fix, soaking and applying betadine or Vetericyn to the affected area. Increasing humidity and a humid hide. Changing substrate to something less dusty, misting. By next shed it’s usually resolved.
- Round Worm: Symptoms, blood in stool, digestive upset, sporadic appetite at times. Requires a stool test. Goat dewormer/panicur is the main medicine prescribed and is over the counter.
- Bacterial infections: Hognose are prone to bacterial infections, dirty water, dusty dry stool particles on the bottom of the enclosure, poor air circulation, dirty environment are causes. These infections are a tough one and hard to diagnose. Even hognose with low grade sepsis will often be dismissed as not having an infection by a veterinarian. As it’s a common build-up of bacteria turned bad and may need a blood sample. Keep your hognose clean with good air flow. Symptoms; lethargy, having a hard time keeping weight on, odd colored stools, lack of growth, lack of appetite, nausea in extreme cases.
- Cryptosisporidium: A huge one and the toughest single celled organism parasite that can affect your colubrid collection. You need a good lab test diagnosis as it can be asymptomatic and hard to pinpoint. It currently has no cure and there are different species and strains that can affect your animal differently. Buy your snakes from a trusted source that has experience with cryptosis and knows proper quarantine. Symptoms if they are breaking out: Regurgitation, watery pale stools (stools can vary greatly) indentation on the underside of their tail, dehydration, weight loss, pale appearance in progressed stages, liver failure, rapid weight loss and atrophy. Prevention: buy from a trusted source. Wear gloves between taking care of different animals. Keep your hatched babies in a separate section from the adults if there is concern the adults could be carriers. Some show little symptoms with the disease and are contagious.
How I quarantine. I permanently quarantine any newly acquired hognose. Only eggs from my quarantine section make it into my collection. So I can hatch clean babies as cryptosis is not transmitted through the blood stream but via stool.
Don’t let any of these things about diseases scare you, it’s just important info to have when purchasing a hognose. Buying from a reliable knowledgeable source will ease those concerns instead of going out and buying a hognose from anywhere.
One of my biggest inspirations to keep and breed reptiles was because of REPTILES magazine. My dad was a big supporter and mentor, he had a monthly subscription since the early 90s. As a kid I would be excited to go through the next magazine! I love seeing REPTILES carry on to inspire the future generation! Thank you for this opportunity. Jeff Galewood, Jr. can be reached on Instagram at instagram.com/jmgreptiles
